Author: Geri Krotow

Award winning author of over 35 novels ranging from cozy mystery, to thrilling romantic suspense, to women’s fiction-y romance.

Warsaw, Poland April 11th-15th 2010

Relaxation, appreciation for our ancestral roots (Steve and I are both 50% Polish descent), and some great Polish cooking was what our family had in mind when we planned to spend our kid’s Spring Break in Warsaw, Poland. We could never have imagined the reality of arriving in a nation of grieving citizens.

Bookstore Memorial
Bookstore Memorial
The President and First Lady of Poland were killed, along with scores of members of the Polish government, in a disastrous flight between Warsaw and Smolensk, Russia. You can find the details in the news if you haven’t already heard them. What I want to share with you is what we witnessed and how, in the midst of such sorrow, my family was able to bring back some hope and faith with us to Moscow.

I was proud of the fact that after landing, we took the city bus from the airport to the plaza nearest our hotel. No 40 Zloty fee for us; our bus tickets were a total of 8 Zloty. We clicked along the sidewalk the three city blocks like the seasoned travelers we are. But then at exactly 12 Noon, there was a deafening silence, then cacophony of sirens, church bells, cars honking. It was an entire minute of grieving. Everyone on the street stopped. Bus drivers and cab riders beeped their horns. It was a collective cry of sorrow and pain.

Glimpse of Old Town Warsaw
Glimpse of Old Town Warsaw
We checked in, and told each hotel worker that we met that we were so sorry for their loss. Even if they only spoke Polish I had the feeling they understood our heartfelt condolences.

Chopin Museum--Closed
Chopin Museum–Closed
Our main goal of this trip quickly morphed into taking it day by day and relaxing as much as possible. Our life in Moscow is very full, for each member of our family individually and for us as a family, too. Anytime we can sleep in and have a buffet breakfast waiting for us is a huge treat. I really got used to the lounge treats at cocktail time. Because this is still considered off-season I found a great deal for us online, and we did indeed take advantage of it.

A Willow Waking Up to Spring
A Willow Waking Up to Spring
Our touring the first day seemed as normal as it could be in a nation with black ribbons on all her flags. I enjoyed the Polish National Museum and seeing the single Botticelli painting. There was a display of majolica ceramics that brought back fond memories of our life in Italy. The church artwork was breathtaking. I couldn’t believe so many of the wood sculptures were nearly 600 years old–they rivaled any modern work I’ve seen in any church, anywhere.

At night we tried to go out to dinner but were met by a procession of Poles with lit candles who were walking to the Presidential Palace to pay their respects and be together. It was awe-inspiring to see so many faces, young and old, affluent and perhaps not so much, all joined together to support one another.

And the candles! Candles were everywhere. They were like our votives but with metal lids to protect the flames.

Candle Prayers
Candle Prayers
But it wasn’t all about grief. I found joy in the Old City, which was surrounded by pieces of the original city wall. Warsaw was completely devastated by World War II and had to be rebuilt, ground up. The work that was done in the name of a battered yet proud culture is something I’ll never forget.

My biggest disappointment was finding the Chopin Museum closed for the period of mourning. Of course I understand–Chopin is Poland’s favorite son. Even his 200th birthday celebration had to pause to note his nation’s loss. It is supposed to be one of the most modern, innovative museums in all of Europe if not the world. I guess this means I’ll be back!

Warsaw Old Town Original City Wall
Warsaw Old Town Original City Wall
I left Poland with a profound respect for my heritage, and with tremendous pride in being an American and from a Democratic society. Because the other thing I witnessed was that this was a peaceful albeit unplanned, unexpected transition for a young democracy. Powerful stuff.

A Writer's Day in Moscow

Moscow is a city of wonder especially in the winter. The hardest adjustment here is learning to grocery shop in bursts. While we have one-stop shopping available, it’s not as convenient to either get to (you have to have your car to haul the groceries back) and unless you get there when they open or very early in the a.m., stores such as Metro (Cash&Carry) and Auchan are so busy that you have to add hours to your shopping trip. And of course, there is the sticker shock.  I paid the equivalent of $9.00 for a pint of raspberries yesterday. I needed/wanted them for a dessert I’m making for a dinner. A luxury, yes, but sometimes in the cold and often gray days of winter the simple burst of red from a raspberry can be paradise.

I prefer to support my local vendors when I can, which means a trip out to the kiosks that are sprinkled all around the metro stations. So many of you ask me what a typical day in Moscow is like–there is no “typical” day. But here’s a glimpse…

I began the day with my usual morning routine–coffee, prayer, coffee, writing. Did I say coffee? Actually I don’t drink that much, and keep my caffeine intake low. But I do enjoy that hot drink to coax me awake. Then I prepared to go shopping for fresh fruits&veggies, some flowers, and maybe even take-out lunch from the local kebab/shashlik place. As it was a Russian holiday I was lucky enough to get my husband to go with me, to carry the treasures. I didn’t tell him about my plan to take pics all along the way, so in one picture you’ll see his “okay, how many photos of an alley are you going to take?” expression. Yup, I married a saint and I know it.

A Glimpse of Where I want to go Later!
A Glimpse of Where I want to go later!!

When we walked out of the embassy gate I looked to my left as we crossed the street and spied where I knew I’d be later. Can you see the skaters in between the fence posts? It’s part of the biggest ice rink I’ve ever been on–they flood and freeze a soccer field. And it’s only a 5 minute walk from my door!

My Down Coat Is a Lifesaver!
My Down Coat is a Lifesaver!

Back to the grocery shopping. Check out the snow–we’re in the midst of a record-breaking year for snowfall and temperatures. We stomped and climbed through snow to get to the alley that we cut through to get to the major kiosk area near us–at the Barrikadnaya Metro Station.  Notice the statue that is our protector as we walk through the alley. It’s only one of several magnificent statues on this particular Seven Sister building–there are 7 of these gothic-inspired, “wedding cake” buildings that were commissioned and built in the 1950’s.

There are kiosks for flowers, beer, bread, kebabs, fruit and veggies, rottisserie chicken..pretty much whatever you need when you’re going to or from the Metro on your way home or to some romantic rendezvous (I put this in here to keep your attention). Because of the heavy snow and flat rooftops of the kiosks, the owners have to shovel off the snow, which can be a danger to those of us walking below!

And more alley--yes, I'm taking this photo, too!
And more alley–yes, I’m taking this photo, too!
Our Shortcut Through the Alley
Our Shortcut Through the Alley
Alley Sentry
Alley Sentry
Barrikadnaya Metro Station--Kiosk Heaven
Barrikadnaya Metro Station–Kiosk Heaven

I found most of the fruits and veggies I sought, minus any fresh herbs like parsley and mint, and green onions. It’s interesting to me what can be available depending on the day and time of year.

While I bought flowers, Steve went over to the shaslik place and got us our yummy lunch–tortilla wraps stuffed with  roasted meat, veggies and a great sauce, then put in a panini press. Our teenaged kids were grateful for the snack.
Fruit and Veggie Stand
Fruit and Veggie Stand
Shoveling snow off the Prodykty (Produce) Kiosk
Shoveling snow off the Prodykty (Produce) Kiosk
My-My's, Can we go there for lunch?
My-My’s, Can we go there for lunch?

I was distracted for a moment when I saw the new My My (moo-moo) restaurant that’s opened near the zoo, also near the Barrikadnaya Metro. My-My’s has a tasty, affordable selection of Russian faire to include borscht, beet salads, roasted meats and pemeni, the Russian verson of tortellini/ravioli.

On the ice in front of one of the Seven Sisters
On the ice in front of one of the Seven Sisters

I was lucky to be able to finish out the day as I’d hoped–on the ice. My kids took these pics, and while I’ve come a long way from skating during the Blizzard of ’77 in Buffalo, New York, it’s a great thing to be able to get on the ice again, all these, um, many years later.

I hope you get to go out and make the most of your day, wherever you are, whatever your abilities, limitations, blessings, or crosses.

It’s how you feel, dahlink, not the date on the birth certificate!

Yes, I'm really on skates!
Yes, I’m really on skates!

Now this is Russia!

Steve on the Volga
Steve on the Volga
Our family went to a winter resort north of Moscow this past weekend. Whatever winter activity you dream of doing…cross country skiing, ice skating, cruising the frozen Volga river on a snow mobile–it was all there. But from all of the great activities to chose from, I have to say walking on frozen paths and taking in the spectacular scenery was my favorite way to pass the time. Oh, and the Turkish bath! My newfound quest–can I have a Turkish bath installed in my dream retirement home?

Frozen Volga River
Frozen Volga River
I actually forgot how much I love a sunny winter day. I grew up in Buffalo New York, so I had plenty of winter days, and know what a dazzling effect the sun has on new fallen snow. But I’d forgotten…living in the middle of Moscow, I’ve gotten used to getting from point A to point B as quickly as possible (usually via metro, where the tunnels are so warm and cozy). It’s often overcast and rather gray in the city, as well, which made this sunny weekend all the more invigorating.

As a child I loved the winter–it was hands-down my favorite season after a beautiful autumn in Western New York. But as the years have gone by and I’ve had the privilege of living in sunnier climes, I somehow decided that I don’t like to feel as though I’m freezing.

It’s time to regain my love of winter and enjoy the beauty of a frozen wonderland.

Our Weekend Dacha
Our Weekend Dacha

While I may live thousands of miles from home, I keep in touch by getting the daily weather updates for Annapolis, MD and Buffalo, NY on my email account.  My friends and family on the east coast are taking a major hit right now, with historical back-to-back blizzards and record snowfalls. The most important thing in all of this, as always, is to stay safe and healthy. If you have your health, and it’s safe to go outside, I encourage you to get out and soak in the spirit of winter. It’s beauty is like no other.

Moscow for the Holidays

The most common phrase heard from a Russian friend this time of year is Happy New Year (in Russian, of course)! New Year’s is the biggest holiday celebration in the former Soviet Union. There are Christmas trees galore, but they are referred to as New Year’s trees. A comeback of Christmas is happening, but I’ve seen far more signs and advertisements that wish Happy New Year than Merry Christmas. The Russian Orthodox Church celebrates Orthodox Christmas one week after New Year’s, so for us Westerner’s it’s a great time–three weeks of Christmas and celebration!

A Writer in Red Square at Christmas
A Writer in Red Square at Christmas
My husband took the picture of me in Red Square a few weeks ago. There’s a lot more snow today, but the tree is there and we look forward to seeing it with a backdrop of fireworks on New Year’s Eve at midnight. Yes, we’re going to take the kids and brave the crowds and cold and spraying bottles of champagne. If I capture any good shots I’ll post them here.

How a Bride Keeps Warm in Moscow
How a Bride Keeps Warm in Moscow
Check out the bride, and check out her fur! Brides are seen everyday of the week, having photos taken around the city at significant monuments and city sights (Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Red Square, various bridges). Another common sight here is–fur. I have never seen so many women in full-length furs. Many have been passed down through families, judging by the styles. In a country with little former access to modern materials (I’m talking for the masses, not the folks living in the bigger cities) it’s easy to understand why fur is the warmest choice. I’ll stick to my Gortex and/or down options, but it’s interesting to see how another part of the world stays warm.

I wish you the warmest New Year ever. May you find Health, Peace, Joy, and Serenity.

Istanbul is for Writers! And if you want to buy a Turkish Rug…

Explosion of color and aroma at the Spice Market
Explosion of color and aroma at the Spice Market

As much as I love Moscow I decided to take my first adventure outside of Mother Russia. My daughter and I went to Istanbul, a short 3 hour flight from Moscow. It’s like going to FL if you live in NY–how different could it be?

Completely. Totally. Amazingly.

Istanbul is a feast of color, spice, and most of all, warmth from the Turks. I have never met such friendly, heart-warming people. Of course I “get” that many of the Turks I met wanted to sell me something, be it a great meal or a beautiful lamp. But the warmth of Turkey goes far beyond the vendor and the product. It’s in the heart of the people.

[We covered a lot of ground for the 4 short days we were there. The highlights of the trip included the Hag Sophia and Blue Mosque. But let me get to the important part–the shopping.

Sun Break in Istanbul!
Sun Break in Istanbul!

Shopping is the local past time in Istanbul. Do you want to find vanilla beans or saffron at great prices? Go to the Spice Market. A lamp or rug? The Grand Bazaar. Forget to get something when you were at either? Then hit up one of the dozens if not hundreds of gift shops that line the main drag, along which a super-modern tram runs at regular intervals.

The sights and sounds of Istanbul fed my writer’s muse, but the food, oh the glorious food, fed my earthly stomach in a wonderful way. Of all the delicious plates served to me, I still can taste the couscous “meatballs” that appeared to be held together with tomato paste and chili sauce.
The rug-buying experience for me was exceptional. I did my research before I went. I knew what kind of rug I’d want and what I absolutely did NOT want. I knew that the first price offered by the vendor would most likely be 2-3 times the value of the rug. You can find many tips (I especially appreciated the article at National Geographic.com) on the Internet.

Visiting the Blue Mosque--head scarves and no shoes
Visiting the Blue Mosque--head scarves and no shoes

What sold me on the vendor I chose was that I chose him, he wasn’t one of the many who approached me first in the Grand Bazaar. I was walking with my daughter and saw the type of rug I liked hanging above the doorway of a shop. When I did meet the vendor, I made it clear that I was in the market for something quite modest, and I wasn’t going to “b.s.” him. He in turn offered me the same respect, and from this initial base of understanding we were able to work together to find a deal that would please us both. Of course the most important thing is that I fell in love with the rug! There are many vendors and many styles of rug in Turkey. My suggestion is to be well-informed but then also be ready to enjoy the entire experience and savor the Turkish Chai (tea) with whichever vendor you choose. What worked for me was the Galeri Tanboga owned and operated by Emre Topuz. He’s located at Hahcilar Caddesi No 41 in the Grand Bazaar, and for more information you can email him at tanbogaist@hotmail.com. I’m reading this off of a business card, so please understand that some of this information can change by the time you travel to Istanbul. But I wouldn’t wait to go–Turkey is now my top travel place, and I’m wondering if we can move there after Russia…

My Computer Blew Up and the Red Piano

No, really. Okay, it was just the power source, and it was my fault. I knew that the computer, just like the monitor and other electronics we have, is dual voltage. But the computer, UNLIKE the other electronic items, requires one to flip the physical switch on the back to “220v.” I didn’t. I was trying to conserve transformer usage–I blew up a transformer a couple weeks before the computer, as I printed out the revised copy of SASHA’s DAD, my June 2010 Harlequin Super Romance.  Laser printer + 362 pages + small transformer = loud “pop,” smoke, horrible odor, tears of frustration.

A writer is a professional, though, and I finished and turned in the revisions on time. No excuses, ma’am. I didn’t like using the “family” computer but found myself practicing gratitude that I had any computer at all. How did Charles Dickens do it? By hand.

More good news is that the computer appears to have only lost the power source–I should be able to use it, eventually. The tech hasn’t returned it yet. And I deftly manipulated these events to justify the purchase of a new laptop for moi. I use an alphasmart (think small word processor, very portable) but I need Internet hook-up and an ability to edit on the road. The flight back to the States from Moscow is 10 hrs–that’s a lot of writing time. The laptop will be lovely to have.

I have so much to share about my new life in Moscow. I’ve been to so many fantastic places to include the honey market (think wine fest/tasting but with a rainbow of honey colors and flavors).

Last week I fulfilled an adolescent dream (that’s a long time ago in my lifespan to date) and saw Elton John on his Red Piano tour. His voice is so powerful at 62–he rocks! And he played the old songs I grew up to–many from Goodbye Yellow Brick Road. The number that remains with me a week later is Someone Saved My Life Tonight. While Elton and his marvelous band played, a mini-film of a younger Elton struggling (I interpreted) with his addictions lit up the screen behind the stage. While the images were sobering (no pun intended) and grotesque, I found the overall presentation to be incredibly spiritual. I left the concert wanting to write the best stories ever, to contribute my best work to the world of art.

I promise many incredible photos of Moscow and Russia in the next post, provided that my computer is returned and/or I receive my new laptop in the mail by then. Keep on doing whatever it is that brings you joy in life!

Where Am I This Time?

Thank God for our pets. They express what we often don’t–or won’t. While I was trying to stay positive and upbeat during our recent unpacking in our new home in Moscow, one of the kids snapped this photo our dog, Shadow. Shadow is a 10-yr-old black lab mix that we rescued in Memphis, TN when she was 7 weeks old. She’s lived in TN, Whidbey Island, WA, Italy, Belgium, Annapolis, MD and now Moscow!

Where's My Bed?
Where’s My Bed?
Shadow has had a longer adjustment this move. She rings a sleigh bell to go outside, and this usually takes just a few days to establish in the new home. This time it took her a month. Most likely it took this long because this is the first time we’ve lived in an apartment setting and can’t just open the back door to let her go in the yard. Or maybe she was p.o.’d at us for the 10 hour flight over–not as easy as the trip over the pond to Italy when she was only 4 yrs old.

I love this photo as it captures my sentiments on many writing days. While I usually know my characters, I don’t always know exactly where they’re going or what they’re up to in the current scene. I have to dig deep through the piles of emotions and back story and come up with what the heck they’re doing.

Not unlike unpacking–unwrapping sheet after sheet of finger-drying and -numbing paper, only to discover it contains the top of a sugar bowl I no longer have. It shattered in the last move.

But then I unpack a box and find the most beautiful skein of yarn that I forgot about after I bought it three years ago–a treasure.

I hope you find your treasure today.

Moscow is for Writers

I’ve lived in Russia for over a month. An entire month–longer than most vacations, shorter than any Navy deployment I ever completed. Yet I feel the hands of the Russian culture as they beckon me to explore.

Reminders of this nation’s culture and history are everywhere. From the statues throughout the city, to the breathtaking views along the Moscow River, to the varied architecture, it’s obvious this is not a young country by any means. Moscow was founded in the middle of the 12th century. Keeps my own years in perspective–I’m still young!

road-trip-goodies-copy

What’s impressed me most is the constant flow of ideas for my writing. Whether I’m looking at a statue of Pushkin on the Old Arbat or watching folks sunbathe in Gorky park as I float down the river on a city cruise, ideas and themes abound.

I had an opportunity to visit Tolstoy’s estate, approximately 3.5 hours south of Moscow. Used to these types of bus tours, I packed appropriately. Knitting helps writing ideas come to mind, and I have a notebook with me  at all times.

The bus ride was bumpy and seemed endless at times, until we wound through the town of Tyla and then into Tolstoy’s estate grounds.

The Road to Tolstoy's EstateThe view as we started our walk is one I’ll always treasure and associate with Russia. The birch-lined road felt more like a cathedral as the sun filtered through the tallest boughs. The white bark contrasted with the lush greenery and it was clear this was a place of respite and serenity.

From the cafe-laden streets of Moscow to the majesty of one of Russia’s, and the world’s, greatest author’s home, I daresay this is a place for writers.

President Obama Talked to Me About My Book!

Dreams do come true–it’s one of my mantras. Ever since I was a little girl I’ve wanted to meet the President of the United States. It took several decades, but it finally happened. I met the President of the United States, Barack Obama. And even more special–I met his lovely wife, our First Lady, Michelle Obama. I’d planned to have my first blog from our new posting to be about where we’ve transferred (Moscow, Russia) , the culture here (incredibly different, challenging, and exhilarating),  my take on it (I’m awed). But one of my childhood dreams has come true, so this is my blog about meeting President and Michelle Obama. We are stationed in Moscow as my husband works at the American Embassy. The President’s visit was announced well before we left the States in June, and I’d hoped I’d get a chance to see him, maybe shake hands. Most of all I really wanted my children to see him. The first great surprise was that Michelle Obama was coming to see us, too. I’ve been following her interest in military families and thought “great! what a chance to thank her for her support.” Should I write a note? Bring flowers? No, I’m a writer–so I brought my book. I would have brought my February 2009 release, What Family Means, but it was in my household goods shipment which hadn’t arrived yet. I did fortuitously have one copy left of my first book, A Rendezvous to Remember with me, thanks to several friends back in the States who requested copies before I left for Russia. I said a prayer and signed the book to Michelle Obama. If I couldn’t get it past security, at least I’d known I’d tried. I’m a HUGE believer in positive thinking, by the way. I wrote an inscription with a sincere heart, and then let go of the outcome–if I could give her my book and say “thank you,” wonderful.

Official White House Photo. All other snapshots on this page: Kristi Stephens. Bottom photo inset created by Waxcreative Design, Inc.

The families who wanted to meet with the President and First Lady had to go through security and wait for nearly 3 hours under a large white tent on the embassy grounds. Presidential schedules are always in flux. At one point I wondered if the event would be canceled–I knew the President had more events to attend in Moscow that evening. Fortunately for all of us who waited, the President and First Lady did arrive and were announced to us by the U.S. Ambassador to Russia. After a brief informal speech, the President and Mrs. Obama stepped off the stage and came around to shake hands. It was soooo exciting to realize that yes, we might all have a chance to shake their hands. But then their staff started looking a little antsy (wouldn’t you if you had to keep the President on schedule and it was already 3+ hours behind?). I looked at a fellow spouse and said “what should I do, do you think I should wait and see if Michelle gets to us?” She didn’t hesitate and replied “I think you should take the first opportunity that comes your way.” The President shook my daughter’s hand, then my son’s, then our friend’s daughter (you can see her with the braids). And then–I put out my hand with my book and handed it to President Obama. I had a moment of  “uh-oh” as his eyes narrowed and I thought for sure he would say “thanks, but no thanks,” or just hand it off to his assistant, the “body man” Reggie. But then the President smiled, a big, wide smile, and held up my book. “This looks sexy!” He raised his eyebrows as he challenged me. “No, it’s not that sexy–it’s a World War II romance. I signed it for Michelle.” At this point I was flabbergasted that the President was talking–to me. And I didn’t want to embarrass my kids–since they’ve become teenagers, it’s easily done. The President read the back flap, looked at the cover again, then started thumbing through the book.  Thank goodness several other people took photos, the ones posted here. We chatted some more which really involved the President laughing and teasing in the nicest manner, and then I shook his hand and thanked him for his service. He’d handed my book to his body guy, Reggie, who started paging through it and looking at my business card. He had an expression of “who is this chick?” on his face. I elbowed my friend and showed her what was happening. Without hesitation, she shouted out, “Hey Reggie, do you want your own copy?” Reggie looked up and gave us a broad smile. I waved and said “I wrote it–I’m an Academy grad.” His eyes grew big “You are?” I laughed and nodded “yes.” Within moments, Michelle Obama came by, and I let her know that I had a gift for her, my book, but the President had it. “Don’t worry,” she said, “I’ll get it back from him.” I got my chance to thank her for supporting military families, and she looked so humbled. “You know we love you guys.” Her voice was sincere and her statement simple. She thanked my kids for being part of a military family, which they thought was cool as ever. She spent time with all of the children there, big and small, and made a very positive impression. This was exactly one week ago. It took me three days to come off of the emotional “high” I was on. My kids were so excited. My dear, supportive husband? He was there, but when the President and Michelle started to meet and greet, he got called away by his cell phone ringing. He was one of the worker bees for the visit, and it was only luck that he was able to come out for the event at all. By the way, you can see the top of my head in the second photo (which is an official White House photo–the others are snapshots), just behind the lady with her face in her hand. Do you think I’m inspired to keep working on my story set in Russia?